The San Diego I Never Knew

When I was growing up in San Diego, we rarely walked to a good restaurant. I lived in a suburban area; there were none nearby. Instead, we sat in our cars, drove fifteen miles, and searched for parking. The five-minute walk toward the destination was considered a defeat: “I had to park three blocks away!”

The San Diego I knew as an adolescent was a decentralized, climate-perfect span of coastlines and chain restaurants. Its unifying feature: a tangle of freeways. There were sparkling beaches, nearby mountains, fresh avocados, and legendary tacos—but they all required gas money, a parking angel, and distance.

Ask anyone how the public transportation system worked and people would snicker. San Diego, the nation’s eighth-largest city, ahead of San Francisco and more populous than Boston and Baltimore combined, hardly felt urban.

I sail, therefore I drive

But during my recent stay, fresh from West Africa, I noticed how much things have changed. I went to restaurants that made me feel like I was in New York City. I saw more people biking and walking. Neighborhoods like Northpark and Southpark that were unremarkable are now home to some of San Diego’s best bars, music, and food venues. The bus and trolley may still be third-rate, but now there’s less reason to travel beyond your own corner.

Within just a few years, San Diego has become the nation’s leader in craft brewing. Food & Wine Magazine says, “Although there are pockets of beer innovation scattered all around America (most notably in Colorado and Oregon), no other place in the U.S. offers the diversity of styles, techniques and flavors that San Diego County does.”

Now, practically every good restaurant and grocer here offers serious local beers on tap: Stone, Ballast Point, Alpine, and others. My homecoming from the Peace Corps, my two months of funemployment among friends, family, and dairy, has been marked by my rediscovering my own city. I once thought business parks and rows of warehouses along the freeway—the very landscape that makes East Coasters feel ill in San Diego—were soulless. Now they’re the locations (scavenger hunt required) of renowned breweries.

Craft & Commerce

My mother recently studied me from across the breakfast table, watching me lunge for an unnecessary third round of waffles and eggs. “You’re clearly recovering from what was a long period of deprivation for you.”

I have been bingeing, it’s true, on almost anything I can get my hands on. My whittled frame, pleading for more protein in Senegal, bounced back. Slowly, I’ve learned to temper my reflexes toward gratuitous slabs of Manchego and the liquor section at Trader Joe’s.

But perhaps it’s precisely because of my panicked hunger that I’ve been able to taste the difference in how far San Diego has come. The city is a sprawling outdoor playground. But now there are justifiable excuses, when the stomach growls, to duck inside.

Ramen goes best with local beer at Underbelly

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What the Peace Corps Taught Me About Failure

Volunteer life bursts with cultural faux pas, fruitless projects and second guesses. For two years, I felt like the joke was on me. Even on my best days in Senegal, the sudden scream of “toubab,” a taunting word for foreigners, reminded me that my cheerfulness was jinxed, my presence perhaps unwelcome.

In West Africa, I confronted the toubab version of myself, a self previously foreign to me that was lethargic, cynical and at home with failure.

For a long time I hesitated to admit that I felt incompetent as a Peace Corps volunteer. I felt that if I expressed my suspicion that I was inept, it would confirm criticisms that the program itself is irresponsible and presumptuous. I signed up largely because I saw myself as a go-getter and I wanted a challenge. I have a childlike loyalty to getting things right; I lack a cleverness for bullshitting. Yet these traits, from which I had previously derived strength, became the source of my immense heartbreak.

I did extra work in my demonstration garden only to find out later that agriculture agents resented me for it. I had lengthy, optimistic conversations with a village chief about starting a community garden only to discover that I misread his reaction and that he was, in fact, against the whole endeavor.

When a project faltered, I wondered if I should blame the cultural difference or my language skills, my lack of expertise or my accidental impropriety. I never knew for sure.

And yet, seeing my confidence unravel was helpful. Maybe everyone needs a period in their lives when they barely recognize themselves.

The story that Peace Corps volunteers like to tell — and Americans like to hear — is one of urgent and awe-inspiring work. Americans like to feel that at least someone is out there fighting all those incomprehensible African problems.

This narrative is too simplistic.

As the Peace Corps celebrates its 50th anniversary, some still find it hard to put a finger on what exactly the program achieves. There are both quantifiable yields, like number of wells dug and trees planted, and unquantifiable gains, like the intimate bonds volunteers make with people all over the world.

One benefit of the program that is never trumpeted (and likely never will be) is that it produces a group of young Americans who understand failure.

Americans, especially the variety who join the Peace Corps, are raised to believe that hard work pays off. We come from a place where the phrase, “We’ll meet tomorrow at 5,” means, “We’ll meet tomorrow at 5″ — where you put a stamp on an envelope and it gets delivered.

“Failure is not an option,” according to the locker room poster likely brought to us by the same people who birthed “Impossible is Nothing.” Americans are immature when it comes to honestly accepting failure and maybe that’s why so many of us lack the emotional depth to make sense of it.

We all have failures, yet we bury them in the folds of our pasts as curious gaps in our résumés and cryptic replies to direct questions. If we are unable to emerge triumphant, our failures eat away at us.

My Senegalese comrades are less brittle. They admit freely that their lives are full of fiascoes, delays and disappointments.

When I asked locals in Pulaar how work was going, I didn’t often hear: “Oh, just fine!” Instead, the response was a more honest, “I’m trying, little by little.” It seems to me that growing up with unpredictability has better equipped the Senegalese people to persevere in the face of real obstacles.

The same barriers Senegalese people manage to climb over regularly ended some of my projects. When I tried obtaining a grant for a women’s farm, the land rights had to first be legally transferred to the women themselves. While the paperwork lingered in a government office, I foolishly kept preparing for the project that would never be, blocking off months in my calendar that I would devote to it. Meanwhile, the women moved on, continuing their own, smaller version of the farm they wanted. They knew not to rest their hopes in government offices and the men who shuffle within them.

I don’t mean to give the impression that Peace Corps volunteers don’t accomplish anything. We do a lot of the things other aid organizations do, but our version is less grandiose: We hold small-group trainings on childhood nutrition and organic pest control. We help small businesses grow, often through a series of one-on-one interactions. Our hyped-up expectations of success are often quashed–we learn quickly that smaller is better.

I survived two years in the Peace Corps. My proudest accomplishment during my time in Senegal, one that can’t be expressed on a résumé, is how much I grew up.

I now know that no occupation, despite my generation’s obsession with passion-following, is without compromise or disappointment. And I know that failure, despite its negative connotations, takes practice.

 

 

This post was originally published at The Huffington Post.

My friend Emilie's interpretation of my transformation from a legal assistant in Manhattan to a free-wheeling Peace Corps volunteer

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On coming back

Out of the window of my Royal Air Maroc flight into New York last week, one of the most exotic things I saw below was red-colored leaves. We seemed to be flying over a suburban area of Long Island. Little houses, knitted together with streets and autumnal trees, reminded me of the feeling I get about New England: thoroughly “American” but from my perspective, never quite “home.” I was flying in from Casablanca after having changed planes from Dakar; almost everyone on the plane was Moroccan. As I’ve experienced from plane rides I’ve taken in developing countries (or on American flights when the ride has been especially turbulent), everyone clapped when the plane landed, me included. Perhaps it was to thank the crew. Or to rejoice in the end of a cramped situation. For me, it was for being alive and back in New York.

My first night back, my friend Jessica acted as my stylist as we used her wardrobe to pick out some updated, weather-appropriate clothing for me to wear so that we could go out to dinner in Brooklyn. I was like a clean slate—not used to the cold yet, no pulse on fashion yet, and only hesitant memories of which train stops where. I had lived in New York for the same amount of time I had lived in Senegal. I was an American on reset.

The cheese selection in the C-Town grocery store in Bushwick.

Of course, I’m still on reset—and it’s a blast. I believe this feeling is one of the greatest gifts I could ever give myself—the chance to experience something I love and know quite well (in this case, the United States), as if it’s new again. Rite Aid. Cheddar cheese. New Jersey accents. Cafes. Good booze. Babies in strollers instead of on backs. Brunch. Public parks. Anonymity. I’m that person walking down the street gazing at everything, eating lunch alone just because the food’s really good, agreeing to meet friends in absolutely any part of town they want, agenda-less.

I’m wondering if the whole reverse culture shock idea is overblown. Some of my friends who are returned Peace Corps volunteers say it was like a hoax the way people advertise it and then it never materializes. Maybe it’s like amoebasI was convinced I’d contract them in Senegal, yet I never did. And maybe being away for two full years allows a person to come full circleyou’re coming back at a point when you’re truly ready to come home, rather than still being high on foreign adventure.

Yesterday, after hearing about the midnight police raid on the protesters in the Occupy Wall Street movement, I went down to Zuccotti Park in Lower Manhattan to see the scene. I’d heard so much about these protests for months from abroad. Then, it was as if the minute I returned to the United States, the park was swept clean like nothing ever happened.

A police officer staring me down in Zuccotti park.

Except, of course, things weren’t normal in the park—police were now occupying the space. I took pictures of the officers behind their barricades, many of them wearing riot helmets. I talked to protesters and bystanders. Demonstrators marched around the perimeter, yelling at the police. There were little clashes everywhere. A man was arrested, wriggling behind a cop as dozens of cameramen leaned in to take snaps.

What a sight! No dumpsters. Not a trace of the tent city and all its inhabitants that had been there hours before. Police officers allowed me to approach them with cameras and talk to them, something I wouldn’t expect to go over well in Senegal. The yellow trees were flawless. Amid the tension; despite the injustice of police blocking anyone from entering a public space; in face of the mounting anger with which the Occupy Wall Street movement would now move forward; in my eyes, an alien swiftness to everything.

I realized once I arrived at Zuccotti Park that I had once eaten lunch sitting in it, more than two years ago. It was for work; I was attending an arbitration that my law firm was involved in. It took place in the large black skyscraper adjacent to the park, One Liberty Plaza. Back then, I thought I wanted to go to law school and accompanied the lawyers in my firm to any interesting event that they would let me attend. The lawyers and I ate lunch at least twice in Zuccotti Park during our breaks from the arbitration. Our client was a woman bringing a gender discrimination claim. We had worked hard on her behalf. We lost.

• • •

By now, I’ve gotten used to wearing socks again. I’m still startled though, when I crawl into bed and notice that my feet aren’t cracked and dirty like I’ve been used to. I plug my electronics straight into the wall instead of wiggling them into an adapter. I switch lights on from the inside wall of a room. I tip waiters. I’m more friendly to strangers than I ever was before. I’m excited to keep meeting new people.

But I know, as a huge adjustment from Senegal, that I’m not supposed to greet random people on the street.

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Meanwhile, back in New York…

pretty trees

Notice how gorgeous the trees are amid this tense situation as police block Occupy Wall Street protesters from using the park this morning. Police were jovial with each other and allowed me to approach them with my camera quite close up. Such a shock from the unspoken no-camera rule in Senegal.

A protester being arrested this morning.

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Dogon Country, Mali

Erin and Helen on our hike in Dogon Country, Mali. All the transit chaos was worth it.

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An experience you won’t soon forget

Why overspend on a spa-quality sauna when you can enjoy a 6-12hr, frequently treacherous, mobile sweatroom as the parched scenery of Western Mali flickers past the sealed windows? Join us in our moving saunas, where we do our best to never let the internal temperature dip below 90 degrees. As your only viable transit option, we elevate you from the confinement of “expectation” by keeping you guessing: When it will end? Will I reach my final destination? Was this all just a big mistake? Here, you’ll discover in yourself a new you: a you who claws for the last of your tranquilizers and becomes prayerful over the continuation of your iPod battery, all in hopes of numbing you through the body odor bonanza.

MTC Sarl Bus Company, Bamako, Mali
Member of the Transit Shitshow Extravaganza Alliance

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Senegalese Sex Tourism

Many Europeans come to Senegal for sex. They do it because West Africa is poor, anonymous and convenient. Fancy resorts, with their attendant communities of tourists, are few and far between here. The country’s grittiness keeps away the judgmental gaze of Western visitors.

In coastal cities like Mbour and Ziguinchor, male prostitution is common. I have observed as older white European women embrace young, athletic Senegalese men for company, and I presume, for sex. In Mbour, I’ve seen the men exercise on the beach, flexing muscles: auditioning. They later approach female tourists, who take their pick. Some men, after their workouts, have traipsed up to me as I’m reclining on the sand, hoping I might be interested. Perhaps it’s clear after I respond to them in a local language that I’m not a tourist with money to spend.

Inland, where I live, female sex work is more common. The main hotel in Kolda, a leafy oasis with a pool, a sports bar, a restaurant, and wireless internet, is the hang-out for European men and their Senegalese “girlfriends.”

These men spend their days in the bush outside Kolda somewhere, being driven around in 4WDs, walking through the forest in their camouflage-print outfits, shooting at game. On days when I use the internet at the hotel, I see them arrive in the evening with their Senegalese guides trailing them in matching camo gear dragging their furry catch. If these men wanted to hunt, they would have headed to East or Southern Africa. Here they settle for warthogs, squirrels and pigeons.

By night, the Europeans sit at long dinner tables by the pool, each of their arms slung around young Senegalese women. It’s like they are all on a singles retreat or at a swingers’ party. Everyone canoodles with everyone else.

There seems to be a lot of pretending going on. The Senegalese women pretend to be girlfriends, spending time with the men, talking, laughing and sleeping with them. While I’ve never seen money change hands, the monetized nature of these relationships is something everyone talks about. A woman my age who I teach English to after her shifts as the hotel hostess says she’s embarrassed to sometimes be confused with the other young women who hang out there as prostitutes.

Perhaps there are deeper romantic connections I’m unaware of between the European men and their Senegalese paramours, but given the attractiveness of these women, I doubt that overweight, middle-aged men from the South of France would be their ideal mates if it weren’t for the monetary and immigration issues at play.

Some say that this is a harmless win-win for everyone. Senegal’s HIV/AIDS rate, at 1%, is one of the lowest in Africa. Locals I talk to about it seem ambivalent: they seem quietly disgusted by sex tourism, but then shrug it off, unable to come up with a more viable financial alternative.
There is also the argument, propounded by some economists, that African women who choose to engage in sex work are making an extremely rational economic decision, one that could improve their lives in real ways.

All that aside, I still can’t help but be sickened by the obvious power differential between an affluent Westerner making a kept woman or a kept man out of a Senegalese local. I have a visceral reaction to this form of inequality. Sex tourism, with its explicit racial components, seems like colonialism of the most intimate and worst kind.

 

[I specifically didn't include pictures because of the nature of this topic.]

 

This post was originally published at the Huffington Post.

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The Only Time I Ever Have—Or Will—Asked for a Donation

Last month, I celebrated two years in Senegal with the Peace Corps. That’s two years since I’ve tasted fresh strawberries, two years since I’ve been chilly enough to wear anything made of wool, two years since I’ve worn high heels. As many of you know, my time here has been incredibly challenging, yet also very rewarding.

Up until this point, I have been firm on not asking friends and family for donations in any projects that I do. I believe that support must come from within and that budgets should remain small.

But the program I’m seeking funding for— the Michele Sylvester Scholarship—is an unusual case in that it is so straightforward, and its effects have been proven over many years.

The link to make a tax-deductible donation is here.

Aissatou Combe Djiba, one of the young women whose good grades qualified her for the scholarship last year.

For the past two years, I have taken part in the Michele Sylvester Scholarship, which was started in 1993 to honor the memory of a Peace Corps volunteer in Senegal who was killed in a car accident during her service. Both years, I worked with the principal and a female teacher at a local middle school to select 9 girls who had good grades but were needy financially. The 9 selected girls were then evaluated by a writing contest, teacher recommendations, and interviews with me and the teacher where we visited their homes and asked them questions about their aspirations as women. I also helped organize workshops for them on self-esteem building.

3 girls went on to become winners and received school supplies ($30 each), and all 9 candidates got their school entrance fees for the next year paid for ($10 each). While this is a tiny amount of money by American standards, for the poorest Senegalese families this goes a long way. Many girls do not continue with school because it is too expensive for their families. Instead, they often get married off (sometimes in their teens), while their brothers are encouraged to continue with school.

The principal at my school has said that the scholarship has already encouraged young women to keep up their grades. We often don’t realize how rare it is for young women in this part of the world to have people tell them how smart they are, how hard they’ve worked, and how going to university is a worthwhile dream.

Together with other Volunteers, I am helping to raise the $10,000 it will take to fund this program for more than 400 girls nationwide. While this may sound like a lot, even contributions as small as $10 can help one of these girls stay in school for another year. The cost for the entire program in my community is just $200, and any funds raised above this target will be used to support the program in other schools and to fund follow-up activities to further empower these young women. To make a tax-deductible contribution, follow this link.

I truly think basic girls’ education is one of the most pressing issues in development. Research has shown that advancements in education, particularly for girls, lead to faster economic growth, smaller and healthier families, reduced rates of HIV transmission, and more equitable and democratic communities. As leading economist Lawrence Summers puts it, “…investment in girls’ education may well be the highest return investment available in the developing world.”
Thanks for your support.

—-

“Peace Corps provides the best return on the dollar in America’s entire foreign policy budget. The program educates thousands of young Americans in each new generation about the reality of life as lived by most of the world’s population. It creates a permanent constituency of informed Americans who will go on to work in development, politics, journalism, diplomacy, and other fields, and will care about the underdeveloped world and carry an intimate knowledge of one corner of it for the rest of their lives. It builds long-term relationships between Americans and people around the world who ordinarily are forgotten when foreign policy is discussed. It leaves behind a generally warm and hopeful view of America and Americans in the minds of people around the world whose individual and collective lives can have a profound effect on the rest of us. In an age of chronic anti-Americanism, with the U.S. portrayed in cartoon-like fashion by much of the global media, the presence of a flesh-and-blood American for two years in a poor village or city slum is a badly needed corrective. Generously funding Peace Corps is a no-brainer for anyone who cares about poverty around the world and America’s standing in it.” -Rajeev Goyal

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And you thought Peace Corps volunteers didn’t inspire fashion…

The Volunteer Plimsoll. For the low, low price of $78. This report by Bruce Pask, from the New York Times Style Section:

Steven Tiller, a co-founder of the retro SoCal sneaker brand SeaVees, was driving to work recently when he heard on NPR that the 50th anniversary of the Peace Corps was coming up. Initiated by an executive order issued by President John F. Kennedy, the Peace Corps Act was passed in 1961, instituting an “army” of volunteers to aid those in developing countries. Sensing an opportunity right in line with SeaVees’s revisionist design philosophy and midcentury aesthetic, Tiller and his business partner, Derek Galkin, began sifting through old photos of Peace Corps volunteers. On their feet? Narrow plimsolls, a common canvas and rubber sneaker for that era. “The idea was to go back in time, reimagine these shoes and hopefully make them cooler,” Tiller said. The resulting slim-lined sneaker in salt-washed canvas has a contrast suede stripe around its rims and a distinct vintage look. Donations to the National Peace Corps Association will be made for each pair sold exclusively at seavees.com and jcrew.com.

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Rain Biking

Boy on bike, Kolda, Senegal. Click to see larger image.

I got caught in a rainstorm yesterday and hung out with the others taking refuge under the awning of the Credit Agricole Bank. We commiserated about the lack of cell phone service. The internet and electricity had been out most of the day too. I was sort of lost, just stuck in this African rainstorm, cut off from the world. I decided to take pictures.  For once, I wasn’t the one getting drenched while biking in the rain.

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